Saturday, 24 August 1782

on the road to Pool: from London; ... through Stains, Middlesex; Bagshot, and turn off at the Golden Farmer, Surrey; across a corner of Hampshire, passing Farnborough Park; to Farnham, Surrey.

...

Now may I pass a tranquil Night,

By Noises undisturb'd, or Sprite,

Or troubled with Night Mare;

In happy slumber drawn to Bliss,

Assured that By its balmy Kiss

None else presume to Share

At earliest Blush of dawning Day,

Tomorrow I will haste away,

My Journey to begin;

And with elate Attention, mark

That early Choirester The Lark

At Heavens high Portal sing:

Thus like the Bee, when Morning greets

Of every Flowerlet taste the Sweets,

In busy Transport Strive;

Laden with Honey of the Mind,

In Health returning I shall find

Contentment in my Hive.

Still the Black Heath continued, and at the Summit of the first Hill is an Ale-house called the Golden Farmer, from a collecting Farmer who grew rich by his depredations, and whose Gallows yet remains upon the Heath. Here I turned Left, (upon a new Road to me), ...

...

Near Farnborough are some gay looking Houses, and the small Park of Squire Willmot; opposite to which is the Odd Sign of Tumble-Down Dick, a Man falling drunk from his chair. The Black Heath here recommences, and continues near to Farnham, ...

...

The Road from Farnham is most enchanting; On the left the well-wooded Forest of Holt; and the Villages of Bentley, Froyle, and Holyport, thro' which I pass'd, are neat, and embellished with good Houses, and Gentlemens Seats. The Country was so bewitching, and the Evening so warm and gay, that I could not hasten, but was near two Hours getting to Alton, a pleasant Market Town, at the end of this charming Vale; for the Country now rises, and at the sign of the Old Windmill changes into a good Fox-Hunting Walk.

from Farnham, Surrey; through Alton, Alresford, Winchester, Rumsey, by Malwood Castle, then Ringwood, Hampshire; and into Dorset.

through Salisbury, Wiltshire; then M. Wallop, Andover, Whitchurch, Basingstoke, Sherfield, Hampshire; ...

In my way I receiv'd a Pint of warm Milk from the Hands of a very pretty Wench at an Alehouse on Rockwell-Heath, the sign of the Anchor, and underneath written Castle-Comfort: (for which I want an explanation). I thought I preceiv'd here much Beauty in the female Peasantry, and so I suppose I shall go on fancying till I arrive at Perfection at my Journeys End.

My intention was to have stop'd at Alresford (20 Miles from Farnham) a Town of the same look and consideration, with Alton; but on Arrival there, finding it was only seven Miles to Winton, and thinking that pushing forward might save a day in my Journey, I pass'd boldly by the Star, (a promising looking Inn); and tho' I saw the Evening change, and black Clouds arise, was rash enough to proceed, (not considering that a great Town is the worst place for a Horse Traveller, and that I was breaking thro' all my old Rules:) but I was yet to be taught, and learn from experience. On then I went to my Misery, when I could have been snug, and comfortable, at Alresford, for I had not got two Miles, e'r the Rain and Wind drove me into Repentance; but then it was too late to return, So thro the remaining Road of steep, and exposed Hills, I hurried on to Winchester, as vexed with myself, as ever Man was; it being just such an Evening as I have after return'd in from a November Hunt. Wet and tired, I put up at the George Inn [Very bad; with horrid stabling] at Winchester; where from my Portmanteau, and want of Attendants, no civil treatment cou'd be got, or for some time any Room for myself; till at last by calling about me lustily, I avoided being put in a Room with Servants; and by dint of perseverance; took care of myself, my Horse, and my Dog, heartily repenting of not stopping at Alresford, where I should have been respected, and at my ease. Here, at last, did I procure (another) boild Chicken for my Supper, and Pen and Ink for my Entertainment, and so betwixt eating; Writing; Dog; and Horse; passd the time till the Hour of retiring arrived.

The Road from Farnham to Alton is very beautiful. The Country so rich, and neat in Cottages, and so well filld with Gentlemens Seats: From Alton, I saw little; so thick was the Rain.

Here [Winchester] are quartered the Anglesea and Northampton Militia; tho at present there are but few Prisoners in the Kings House. David Tyrie, the Spy, was taken from the Gaol this Morning in a Coach and Six, to be carried instantly, to the Place of Execution at Portsmouth.