Transcription of Samuel Simpson's Agreeable Historian, 1746.

Transcription the the Westmorland chapter from The Agreeable Historian or Compleat English Traveller, by Samuel Simpson, published by R Walker, Fleet Street, London, 1746. The text pages used are in the Wordworth Trust Collection, item GRMDC:2007.38.60.

source type : Simpson 1746

The page size is: wxh, page = 11x16.5cm.

Transcription of the Cumberland chapter has been made from a copy of volume 1 of The Agreeable Historian in the National Library of Scotland, Map Room.

Notes

Volume 3 includes counties from N - Norfolk to Y - Yorkshire. The list on the title page omits Westmorland, but the text transcribed here has the catchword 'Wiltshire' at the end of its last page, and is surely from this volume.

Samuel Simpson declares his sources; William Camden, John Leland, Thomas Dugdale, John Ogilby, Mr Morgan, and others. In reading, the text feels as if it had been assembled by cut and paste in a word processor! grabbing bits of text, but never melding them properly.

Transcription and Indexing

Transcription and indexing follow the pattern used for West 1778, and Otley 1823, in the Lakes Guides project. Misspellings have been retained as carefully as possible. Marginals are added; they are not in the original text.

The catchword at the end of each page is transcribed.

Italics in this text have been marked with the HTML tags, MODES does not use these but when downloaded to html pages they will operate correctly. This has NOT been done in earlier transcriptions in the Lakes Guides project.

The Editing Process

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Simpson's Agreeable Historian, 1746

Title Page :-

Image SMP3T.jpg.

THE Agreeable Historian,

title Or the COMPLEAT English TRAVELLER:

GIVING A Geographical DESCRIPTION of every County in that Part of Great Britain, call'd ENGLAND.

Together with The ANTIQUITIES of the same.

contents With a Full and particular ACCOUNT of all the Cities, Market-Towns, Villages, Royal Palaces, and Gentlemen's Seats; of the Sea Ports and Fortifications, the Course of the Rivers and the Inland Navigation; of all the Fairs, and Market Days; and of the Trade, Commerce, and Product: With a Map of every County prefix'd to each, from the best and latest Observations, after the Designs of HERMAN MOLL, and others.

VOL. III.

counties Containing the following Counties, NORFOLK, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE, NORTHUMBERLAND, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE, OXFORDSHIRE, RUTLANDSHIRE, SHROPSHIRE, STAFFORDSHIRE, SUFFOLK, SURRY, SUSSEX, WARWICKSHIRE, WILTSHIRE, WORCESTERSHIRE, and YORKSHIRE.

Compiled from Camden, Leland, Dugdale, Ogilby, Morgan, and other Authors,

By SAMUEL SIMPSON, Gent.

LONDON: Printed by R. WALKER, in Fleet Lane; and Sold by the Booksellers in Town and Country, 1746.

Notes on transcription etc,

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Westmorland WESTMORELAND.

county size THIS is an Inland County, which has Lancashire on the South and South west; Cumberland on the West and North-west; and Yorkshire and the Bishoprick of Durham on the East and North-east. 'Tis commonly reckoned 30 Miles in Length, but not above 24 in Breadth, and about 120 in Compass. containing 510000 Acres of Land. Mr. Templeman makes it 36 Miles in Length, and 34 in Breadth, and gives it an Area of 633 square Miles.

baronies wards diocese parishes 'Tis divided into the Barony of Westmoreland, which is a large, open, champain County, belonging to the Diocese of Carlisle, twenty Miles long, and fourteen broad; and the Barony of Kendal, which is full of Mountains, and belongs to the Diocese of Chester. Both these are subdivided into two Wards, each of which contains thirty-two Parishes, wherein are many Chapels of Ease, eight Market-towns, of which one only is a parliamentary Borough; and about 6600 Houses. In each of these Divisions are several Deaneries and Constablewicks, but no Hundreds, perhaps because anciently these Parts paid no Subsidies, being sufficiently charg'd in the Border-service against the Scots. The Gentlemens Houses in this County are large and strong, and generally built Castle-wise, for Defence of themselves, their Tenants, and their Goods, against the Scots Incursions, which before the Time of King James I. were very common.

The Barony, or Bottom (as 'tis also call'd from its low Situation) of Westmoreland, which is the northern Part, affords Plenty of arable Land, which bears good Store of Corn. The Barony of Kendale, or Candalia, which is the southern Part of the County, and so called from the River Can, which runs along the Valley, is pent up for

some

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some Space in a narrow Compass between the River Lone on the East, and Winander mere on the West, and has some Rocks as well as Mountains, but is pretty fruitful in the Vallies, especially in the Meadows, near the Rivers; and its Mountains have good Pasture for Sheep, with Copper Ore in some Parts.

climate Its Air is sweet, healthful, and pleasant, but somewhat sharp in the mountainous Parts.

rivers Eden Eamont The most noble River in this County is the Eden, or Ituna of Ptolomy, which we mentioned in Cumberland. It rises at a Place called Hugh Seat Morville, or Hugh Morvill's Hill, out of which, two other Rivers, the Eure and Swale, run into Yorkshire. In its long Course it receives twelve Rivers and Brooks, some of which are considerable Streams; so that before it joins the Eimot, 'tis a very large River. Tradition says that Uter Pendragon made great Efforts to bring this River from its old Channel, but to no Purpose, which gave Occasion for the Rhyme,

Let Uter Pendragon do what he can, The River Eden will run as it ran.

rivers Kent Lune Lowther The River Can, Ken, or Kent, rises at Kentmere, and being joined by two large Rivers before it comes to Kendale, they render it a large Stream, with which is passeth thro' a Stony Channel abounding with Fish, into Solway Frith. The greatest River in the South Parts, is the Lone or Lune, which rising near Mallerstrand Forest, not far from Rissendale, gives Name to the Track called Lonsdale, i.e. a vale upon the Lone. After receiving some Rivulets, and the two Rivers Birkbeck and Burrow, near Orton. it grows a large Stream, and waters the middle Part of the County, and near half the Borders towards Yorkshire, and then passes into Lancashire. The Loder, or Lowther River is a very clear Stream without Mud, which rises in the Broad water Lake near Thornthwaite Forest; and after a long Course falls into the Eimot near Hornby. The Lowther's Family take their Name from it, and have a Seat on the Banks of it.

Windermere Among the Mountains in the South Part of the County, on the Borders of Cumberland, lies Winander mere, said to be the greatest Lake in England, and to be so called by

the

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Windermere depth char the Saxons from its winding Banks. It extends itself like a Sea on the West Side from North-bridge on the South, where it contracts itself again into a River to Gresmere North. 'Tis about ten Miles in Length, and paved at the Bottom, as it were, with one continued Rock. 'Tis said to be of a vast Depth in some Parts of it, and is well stored with a Sort of Fish rarely found, except among the Alps, and is reckoned a Sort of Golden Alpine Trout; 'tis baked in Pots, and so sent to London and other Parts, being a most acceptable Present. In it are several Isles or Holmes, and the Fishing belongs to Apelthwait a Hamlet in Winander-mere Parish, whose Rector has a Pleasure-boat upon it, and a certain Sum from every Fishing-boat in lieu of Tythes.

Ullswater The Ulleswater is a Lake well-stocked with Fish, and has some Chares too, but not in such Plenty as the former, and is fed with six small Rivers. 'Tis ten Miles North of Winander-meer, and both Cumberland and this County lay Claim to it.

dripping well In Betham-Park in the Barony of Kendal, is a petrifying Spring called the Dripping Well.

coal wood forests Besides Pit-coal, this County abounds with other Fuel, there being Plenty of Wood upon the Mountains in the Barony of Kendal; and there are divers Forests in the Barony of Westmoreland, as Whinfield-Forest in the Peninsula between the Rivers Eimot and Eden; Martindale-Forest, which extends almost the whole Length of Ulleswater; Thornthwait Forest, Mallerstang, Milborn, and Melden-Forests; besides divers Parks, which are well stock'd with Wood in both Baronies.

barons earls Parliament This County gave formerly Title of Baron to the Family of Vipont, and afterwards of Earl, first to the Family of Nevil, and then to that of Fane, which now enjoys it. It sends only four Members to Parliament, viz. two for the County and two for

Appleby Appleby, which claims the first Place both on account of its Antiquity, and because 'tis a County Town, where the yearly Assizes are held, tho' 'tis neither very rich nor beautiful; but the Situation of it in the midst of pleasant Fields, and on the Banks of the River Eden, which almost encompasses it, is very agreeable. The Name is a Corruption of the Aballaba mentioned in the Notitia. In the

Romans

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Romans Time it was the Station of the Mauri Aureliani, a Band of Soldiers, so called because they were sent hither by the Emperor Aurelian. King Henry I. gave it Privileges equal to York that city's Charter being granted, as 'tis said, in the Forenoon, and this in the Afternoon of the same Day. It has the same Privileges still, its Charter having been confirmed by King Henry II. and also by King Henry III. (in whose Time there was an Exchequer here) and by the succeeding Kings of England. In the Reign of King Edward I. it had a Mayor and two Provosts, who sign'd the publick Acts of the Town together with the Mayor, tho' at present they only attend the Mayor with two Halberds. Brompton makes mention of Applebyshire, and 'tis supposed that it had once Sheriffs of its own, as most Cities had; or else that Westmoreland was called the County of Appleby or Applebyshire. In the 22d of Henry II. it was set on Fire by the Scots, as it was again in the 12th of Richard II. In 1598 it was also a great Sufferer by a Pestilence, and so depopulated, as appears from an Inscription placed in the Garden belonging to the School-house, describing those Calamities, which it has never yet recovered, that the Market was removed to Gilshaughlin, four or five Miles from the Town. William King of Scots took this Town, and the Burgh under Stanemore by Suprize, a little before himself was taken at Alnwick; but they were afterward recovered by King John, who gave the Castle and Barony of this Town and the Burgh to John de Vipont, whose Family and that of the Cliffords have been Lords of this County, and flourished at this Place for above 500 Years. Its Market is on Saturdays, and Fairs on Whit monday, May 30, and June 10.

The Assizes are held here in the Town-hall, but the Goal for Malefactors, which was formerly in the Castle, is now at the End of the Bridge. Here is the best Corn-market in all these northern Parts; but the chief Beauty of the Town consists in one broad Street, which runs with an easy Ascent from North and South; at the Head whereof is the Castle, almost surrounded with the River, and with Trenches, where the River comes not. At the Lower-end of the Town are the Church, and a School built by Robert Langton and Miles Spencer, Doctors of

Law,

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Law, and much improved and augmented by Dr. Smith, late Bishop of Carlisle, and other Benefactors: But the greatest Benefactress to this Town was the Lady Anne, Daughter and Heiress of George Lord Clifford, who in 1651 founded, and afterwards endowed an Hospital here, for a Governess, and twelve other Widows, commonly called, the Mother and twelve Sisters, settled Lands on the Top to the Value of 8 l. a Year to keep up the Repairs of the Church, School-house, Town-hall, and Bridge; rebuilt a good Part of the Church in which she lies interr'd, and wholly rebuilt the Church at Bongate, which is a Part of this Town.

The Town is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, twelve Aldermen, a Common-council, and Serjeants at Mace. It stands on the Roman military Way, which crosses this County from Rear-Cross on Stainmore in the East, to the River Eden, a little below Penrith in the West.

Other Towns of chief Note in this County are,

Kendal Kendal, called also Kirkby Candale, i.e. a Church in the Valley upon the River Can, over which it has two Bridges of Stone, and one of Wood, and a Harbour for Boats. Dr. Gale thinks it to be the Brovonaca of Antoninus, and allows that it was the Station of the Romans, called Concangi; but both these Points are disputed. 'Tis much superior to Appleby in Trade, Buildings, and the Number and Wealth of the Inhabitants, and is indeed the largest Town in the County. It has two good Streets, which cross each other, and is inriched by the Industry of the Townsmen, and the Woollen Manufacture, with which they have drove a Trade throughout England ever since the Reign of Edward III. As early as Richard II. and Henry IV. special Laws were enacted on purpose for regulating Kendal Cloths. Queen Elizabeth erected it into a Corporation by the Name of Aldermen and Burgesses; and King James I. incorporated it with a Mayor, Recorder, Town-Clerk, twelve Aldermen, twenty four Burgesses, and two Attorneys, of whom the Mayor, Recorder, and two Senior Aldermen, are always Justices of the Peace. It is of Note also for the Manufacture of Cottons, Druggets, Serges, Hats, Worsted, and Yarn Stockings, &c. Its Markets are on Saturday, and the Monday before Lady day, and its Fairs are on

Trinity

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Trinity Monday, April 25, October 28, and between them a great Beast-market every Fortnight.

There are seven trading Companies belonging to the Town, viz. Mercers, Sheermen, Cordwainers, Tanners, Glovers, Taylors, and Pewterers, who have each their Hall. The Church here is beautiful, and very large, and yet has twelve Chapels of Ease belonging to it. 'Tis supported by five Rows of handsome Pillars. Near the Church is Free-School well endowed, with Exhibitions for such Scholars as are sent hence to Queen's-College, Oxford. There's a Charity-School here for sixteen Boys and ten Girls, all cloathed and taught. At a little Distance from the wooden Bridge are the Ruins of a Castle, in which Catherine Parr, the sixth Wife of Henry VIII. was born.

This Place has had the great honour of giving Title of Baron, Earl and Duke, particularly that of Earl to Prince George of Denmark; and last of all, that of Dutchess to the late Melusina Schulenberg, who had before been created Dutchess of Munster in Ireland.

Kirkby Lonsdale Kirkby Lonsdale, the chief Town of Lonsdale, i.e. a Vale upon the Lone, that Tract which gives Title of Viscount to the Family of Lowthers of Lowther Hall, in this County. It is called Kirkby from the Bishop of Carlisle of that Name, who routed the Scots, and 'tis said was a Native of this Place. 'Tis a prettty large Town, with a Woollen Manufacture, and has a fair Church, with a good Stone Bridge over the River Lone. Its Market is on Tuesday.

Kirkby Stephen Kirkby Stephen, or Stephen's Church, on the River Eden, is one of the Towns of this County noted for weaving Yarn Stockings, and a Free-School founded and endowed by the Family of Wharton. Its Market is on Friday, and Fairs are on St. Mark's and St. Luke's, and Whit-monday.

Ambleside Ambleside, is another Town noted for a Manufacture of Cloth, on the upper Corner of Winander Mere. Its Market is well stored with Provisions, which is kept on Wednesday.

Brough Brough, or Burgh, under Stanemore, i.e.a Borough under a stony Mountain. It stands on a Rivulet about two Miles from the River Eden, and is divided into

two

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two Towns, viz. the Upper alias Church Brough, where the Church stands, with a Castle and a small Fort called Caesar's Tower, the former of which being demolished, was rebuilt not very many Years ago by a Countess of Pembroke. Near the Bridge a Spaw-well was lately discovered. The other Part is called Lower Brough from its Situation, and Market Brough from its Market, which is pretty considerable, and is kept on Thursday.

Milnthorpe Milthorp, at the Mouth of the Can, is the only Sea-Port Town in the County, Commodities being brought hither in small Vessels from Grange in Lancashire.

Shap Shap, once called Chepe and Hepe, is a Market-Town five Miles from the Road that leads from Penrith to Brough, and belongs to the Family of Wharton. It has a Moot-house, the upper Part of which is a Room for the publick Business.

The ancient Places of most Note in this County are,

Amboglana Amboglana, which if we regard the Analogy of Names, can be placed no where more conveniently than at Ambleside upon Winander Mere, and the rather, because it shews the Ruins of an old City, and other Marks of Aniquity, and several Medals of Gold. Silver, and Copper, have been found here, some of which were in that Collection which Mr. Brathwate of Ambleside gave in 1674 to the University Library at Oxford.

Verterae Verterae must be Brough under Stanemore for several Reasons, viz. the Name which imports Antiquity, its Situation upon a Roman Highway, and the exact Agreement of the Distances from Levatrae and Brovonacum.

Gallatum Gallatum is supposed to be Whelp Castle, near Kirkby Thore, where are the Ruins of an old Town, and very considerable Remains of Antiquity.

Setantiorum Setantiorum Lacus is supposed to be Winander Mere.

Maiden Way At Kirkby-Thore begins the old Causey called the Maiden Way, which runs twenty Miles from hence to Caer Vorran near the Picts Wall.

Arthur's Round Table Mayburgh That which the Country People call King Arthur's Round Table is a little to the South of the Conflux of the Lowther and Eimot. There's a Trench on the Inside of it, by which some think it was a Place for Justs and Tournaments; but others that it was only a Cockpit, or a Ring to wrestle in. Near it is a kind of Fortifica-

tion,

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[Fortifica]tion, being a Pile of Stones heaped up in the Form of a Horseshoe, called Mayburgh. At this Place a Peace was concluded in 926, between King Ethelstan, Constantine King of Scots, and other Princes.

For the rest we refer to Mr. Camden, and the other Antiquaries.

The Seats of the Nobility and Gentry of this County are,

Pendragon Castle Pendragon Castle, twelve Miles from Appleby, the Seat of the Earl of Thanet, Hereditary Sheriff of the County.

Beltham Castle At Beltham Castle, seven Miles from Kendale, the Earl of Derby's.

Lowther Hall At Lowther Hall, near Ulles-Water, the Lord Viscount Lonsdale.

WILTSHIRE.

Simpson's Agreeable Historian, 1746

Title page:-

title THE Agreeable Historian, Or the COMPLEAT English TRAVELLER: GIVING A Geographical DESCRIPTION of every County in that Part of Great Britain, call'd ENGLAND. Together with The ANTIQUITIES of the same.

contents With a Full and particular ACCOUNT of all the Cities, Market Towns, Villages, Royal Palaces, and Gentlemen's Seats; of the Sea Ports and Fortifications, the Course of the Rivers and Inland Navigation; of all the Fairs and Market Days; and of the Trade, Commerce, and Product; With a Map of every Country prefix'd to each, from the best and latest Observations, after the Designs of HERMAN MOLL, and others.

VOL. I. Containing the Following Counties, BEDFORDSHIRE, BERKSHIRE, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, CAMBRIDGESHIRE, CHESHIRE, CORNWALL, CUMBERLAND, and the ISLE of MAN, DERBYSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE, DORSETSHIRE, DURHAM, and ESSEX.

counties Compiled from Camden, Leland, Dugdale, Ogilby, Morgan, and other Authors, By SAMUEL SIMPSON, Gent.

LONDON: Printed by R. WALKER, in Fleet Lane; and Sold by the Booksellers in Town and Country, 1746.

Notes on transcription etc,

page 173

Cumberland CUMBERLAND, AND ISLE of MAN.

ancient times IN the Time of the Romans Cumberland was Part of the large Country inhabited by the Brigantes, containing besides this County, Yorkshire, Durham, Lancashire, and Westmoreland. During the Time of the Saxon Heptarchy, it made Part of the Kingdom of Northumberland.

Romans Picts and Scots The Wall When it was in the Power of the Romans, it was much frequented by their Legions and Soldiers, not only to keep the Inhabitants in Order, but bordering upon their troublesome Neighbours, the Picts and Scots, they were forced continually to guard it against their Invasions; but when the Distractions of the Roman Empire caused the Legions of Britain to be call'd Home, the Scots and Picts, sensible that all Opposition was near remov'd, soon brake thro' the strong Wall, built by the Emperors Adrian and Severus, extending from Sea to Sea about 82 Miles in Length, tho' it had been not long before rebuilt, and made stronger, and now miserably harrass'd the Britons, destitute of their wonted Guard; in which almost continual Conflicts they lived, 'till the Saxons brought them, with the rest of the Kingdom, into a Subjection to them, dividing it into seven Parts, or Principalities. In this Settlement, Cumberland became a Part of the Kingdom of Northumberland, and was then called Cumberland.

county size This County, which is 168 Miles in Circumference, is bounded by Scotland on the N. by the Irish Sea on the W. and S. and on the E. by Part of Lancashire, Westmoreland, Yorkshire, Durham, and Northumberland.

diocese parishes wards Members of Parliament It lies partly in the Dioceses of Chester and Carlisle,

and

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and contains about 1,040,000 Acres, and 14,825 Houses. It is not divided into Hundreds, as most other Counties are, but Wards, of which there are five, viz. South-Ward, North-Ward, West-Ward, Leath-Ward, and Eskdale-Ward, wherein are 58 Parishes, containing one City, one Borough, and 12 other Market Towns; and sends six Members to Parliament, two for the County, two for the City of Carlisle, and two for the Borough of Cockermouth.

climate soil agriculture industry The Air is cold and sharp, tho' not so much as might be expected from its Northern Situation, being shelter'd by Hills on the Side next Scotland. The Soil is for the most Part fruitful of Corn and Grass, the Plains affording good Plenty of the one, and the rich Mountains of the other, which are therefore always stocked with great Store of Sheep. The County affords pleasant Prospects, which would be still more agreeable, if Trees could be brought to thrive better than they generally do. The chief Commodities are Coal, Lead, Copper, Lapis Calaminaris, Black Lead, (call'd by the Inhabitants Wadd,) Fish, especially Salmon, Wild Fowl, Pearls, &c. The Black Lead, which is almost peculiar to this County, is not properly a Metal or Mineral, but rather an Earth, strongly impregnated with the Streams of Lead: There is more of it here than suffices for the Consumption throughout Europe. As to the Pearls, they are found at the Mouth of the little Brook Irt, somewhat to the N. of Ravenglass, in a sort of Shell Fish, or Muscles, which the Country People used to gather up at low Water: They are of all Colours; those that are not bright and shining, commonly call'd Sand-Pearl, are as useful in Physick, as the finest, tho' not so beautiful. There has been a Patent not long since granted to some Gentlemen and others for Pearl Fishing here, but it is uncertain whether it will turn to any Account.

rivers Eden Derwent lakes Ullswater There are many considerable Rivers in this County, and large Bodies of Water, which the Inhabitants call'd Meres. Of the Rivers, the Chief are the Eden, and the Derwent: the Eden takes its Rise from Ulles Water, and after a Course of about 30 Miles

to

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to the Northward, turns to the West, and passing by Carlisle, falls into the Solway Frith. The Derwent runs thro' the Middle of the County, passes by Cockermouth, and discharges itself into the Irish Sea near Workington.

The Wall The famous Picts-Wall, of which some Remains still appear in this County, and which was the Boundary of the Romans Jurisdiction in this Isle, called in Latin, Vallum Barbaricum, was erected on this Occasion: The Romans having conquer'd the most fruitful and pleasant Parts of Britain, and finding that the more remote they went towards the N. the more barbarous were the People, who had nothing desirable in them, contrived, according to their Custom in other Conquests, to raise Fences, such as might secure and bound the province. It was made in the Fashion of a mural Hedge, of large Stakes driven deep into the Ground, and wreathed together with Wattles, strengthened with huge Heaps of Turf and Earth, and a deep Ditch, extending from the German to the Irish Ocean.

barons earls This County has given the Title of Earl, or Duke, to the following Persons, since the Conquest:

Ranulph, or Ralph de Meschines, was the first Lord of Cumberland, by the Conqueror's Donation, and his Son

Ranulph succeeded him in that Dignity and Power; but being Heir by his Mother to the Earldom of Chester, he removed thither, and resigned the Lordship of Cumberland into the King's Hands, which King Stephen gave to Malcolm, King of Scots, to hold of him, on Condition that he should protect the N. Parts of England by Sea and Land, against the Incursions of all Enemies. From which Time

The eldest Sons of the Kings of Scotland were stiled Lord of Cumberland: But King Henry II. considering how great a Prejudice this Grant was to the Kingdom, resum'd it, and gave him the Earldom of Huntingdon: And so this Honour remain'd in the Crown 'till King Henry VIII. created

Henry Clifford, descended from the Lord Vipont, or de Vetere Ponte, Earl of Cumberland, in which Family

it

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it continu'd 'till the Year 1643, when Henry Lord Clifford, the then Earl of Cumberland, died at York, leaving only a Daughter, and the Times being disturbed, the Honour ceas'd for a Time, 'till King Charles I. was pleased to create his Nephew.

Rupert, Count Palatine of the Rhine, second Son of Frederick, Prince Elector Palatine, and the Princess Elizabeth, his Wife, Duke of Cumberland, and Earl of Holderness. He died unmarried in the Year 1682, and seven Years after

Prince George of Denmark, then Consort to the Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne, was created Duke of Cumberland, Earl of Kendal, and Baron of Ockingham. The present Duke of Cumberland is,

His Royal Highness Prince William, second Son of his Majesty, King George II.

towns The principal Towns in Cumberland, are, besides the City of Carlisle and the Borough of Cockermouth, Ravenglass, Egremond, Whitehaven, Workington, Keswick, Penrith, Ierbey, Wigtown, Kerkoswald, Alstodmore, Brampton, and Longtown.

Carlisle Carlisle, the British Chronicle tells us, was first built by a petty King of this County, named Luel, or Lugubal, long before the Romans invaded Britain, and upon that Account had the name of Caer-luel, or Lugubal. In the Time of the Emperor Claudius, when the Roman Legions had extended their Conquest thus far Northward, they altered the Name but very little, calling it Luguballum, or Lugubalia, and fixed their Head Quarters here; whence it is that so many Roman Monuments have been, and still are discover'd in this Neighbourhood, and indeed through the whole County, which affords much Matter of Speculation to the curious Enquirers into Antiquity. This City of Carlisle is 235 Miles computed from London, and 302 measured.

Upon the Departure of the Romans, this City was ruined by the Caledonians, i.e. Scots and Picts, and other barbarous Nations, who spoiling and ravaging it, it lay buried it in its Ruins 'till about the Year of Christ 680, when Egfrid rebuilt it, and encompass'd it with a Stone

Wall

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Wall, repair'd the Church, and annexed a College of Canons, or Prebends, to it.

Danes Norwegians But in the 8th and 9th Centuries, the whole County was again ruined by the repeated Incursions of the Danes and Norwegians, this City being laid quite desolate, and all the Citizens barbarously destroy'd, some few Ecclesiasticks and chief Inhabitants excepted, and in this miserable State it continu'd 200 Years, 'till the Time of the Norman Conquests, which better'd not its Condition, for William, the Conqueror, took no farther Notice of it, than by Writ to subject it, and the rest of the County, to the See of Durham: but William Rufus, his Son, returning Home from the Scotch Wars, after he had settled a Peace with that Nation, made a Visit to Carlisle, and being pleas'd with the Situation, he repair'd it, both as to the Fortifications and Houses, and placed here a Colony first of Flemings, and afterwards of English Husbandmen from the more Southern Provinces, for the Improvement of the Lands, which had then lain so long uncultivated.

Carlisle Carlisle being thus in some Measure restor'd, King Henry I. considering how good a Barrier it might be made against the Scots, caused it to be well fortify'd, plac'd a Garrison in it, dignify'd it with an Episcopal See, and bestow'd upon it many other Privileges and Emoluments, which might make it strong and populous, which his Successors, even down so low as Queen Elizabeth, very much augmented. It was indeed often besieg'd by the Scots, and twice taken, viz. in King Stephen's and King John's Reigns; but was recover'd gain by their successors King Henry II. and III. and tho' it was burnt by Misfortune in the reign of Richard II. and near 1500 Houses destroy'd, with the Cathedral and Suburbs, yet by the Munificence of the succeeding Kings, it was again restor'd, and much improved in Strength and Beauty.

It is, at present, a wealthy and populous Place, the Houses are well built, the City walled in, having three Gates, viz. the Caldo, or Irish Gate, on the S. the Bother, or English Gate, on the W. and the Richard, or Scotch Gate, towards the N. It trades chiefly in Fustian, has a considerable Market on Saturdays, and three Fairs

annually

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annually, viz. on the Wednesday before Easter, on the first Wednesday in June, and on the 15th of August. It is govern'd by a Mayor, &c. The Assizes and Sessions, for the most Part, are held in this City

King Edward I. held a Parliament here in the 35th Year of his Reign; and King Henry II. committed the Custody of the City to the Citizens, and granted them the said City, and the Mills thereunto belonging, and the Royalty of Eden Water, in Fee Farm at 80 l. per Annum, with Liberty of the Waste, and to be free from Toll, &c. This City had also Charters granted them by several succeeding Kings, as King Edward III. Richard II. his Grandson, Henry IV. and Henry VI. by some of which, the Citizens are freed from the Fee-Farm Rent payable to the Crown, and enjoy the Fishery in the River Eden, with large Common of Pasture, Right of Fairs and Markets, and many other Immunities which are vested in the Corporation, (in whom also is the Manor) consisting of a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, two Sheriffs, or Bailiffs, 24 Capital Citizens, or Common-Council Men, and a Recorder.

The Representatives in Parliament are chosen by the Freemen of this City, who are commonly reckon'd to be 500; tho' by giving honorary Freedoms, the Number is much increas'd. The Revenues of the City amount to 4 or 500 l. per Annum, and the Number of the Inhabitants taking in those of the Suburbs (tho' the Houses there are but few) is upwards of 2000.

There are but two Parish Churches in this City, St. Mary's and St. Cuthbert's: St. Mary's is the Cathedral, and stands almost in the Middle of it, but is separated from it by a Wall of its own; the eastern Part, which is the newer, is a curious Piece of Workmanship; the Choir, which, with the Isles, is 71 Feet broad, is a fine Piece of Building, the E. Window thereof is 48 Feet in Height, and 30 in Breadth, adorned with Pillars of curious Workmanship; the Roof is elegantly vaulted with Wood, and embellish'd with the Arms of England and France quarter'd, the Piercy's, Lucy's, Warren's, Mowbray's, and many others. In the Choir are the Monuments of three Bishops of this See, Bell, Robinson,, and

Smith,

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Smith, who are buried there. The W. End, which is the lower, and was anciently the Parish Church, was also a spacious Building before the Rebellion in 1641, but was for the greatest Part demolish'd by those violent Reformers, and the Materials made Use of for the Building of Guard-Houses at every Gate, erecting Batteries in the Castle, and setting themselves up private Dwellings in the Town; tho' it has been observ'd their Posterity never enjoy'd them.

This City has given Title to many noble Persons, and, if we may believe some Historians, to some of the Royal Family.

Ranulph de Meschines, known in our Histories best by the Title of the Earl of Chester, was made Earl of Cumberland, and because he had the Government of that County, and resided chiefly in this City, he was sometime stiled Earl of Carlisle. He began to build this City in 1072. David, the Son of Malcolm III. King of Scotland, made his eldest Son

Henry, Earl of Huntingdon and Carlisle. King Henry II. regaining Cumberland from the Scots, left it to his Successors, of whom his Grandson made

William de Vipont, Lord of Carlisle; after whom we read of none 'till

Andrew de Harcla, near 100 Years after, was by Edward II. created Earl of Carlisle; but he was beheaded, and many Years after

John Plantagenet, third Son of Henry VI. afterwards Duke of Bedford, and regent of France, is said to have borne the Title of Earl of Carlisle, as also

Richard the 4th Son of Richard, Duke of York, and Brother to King Edward IV. had the same Title among other Honours. After these, of whom there is no Certainty as to this Title, it lay dormant for several Reigns, 'till it was revived by King James I. who created

James Hay, Viscount Doncaster, Earl of Carlisle, January 20, 1622, in Consideration of his eminent Services in several Embassies to France and Germany: He dying in 1636, was succeeded by his only Son

James Hay, next Earl of Carlisle; but he died without Issue; whereupon King Charles II. in 1661, created

Charles

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Charles Howard, Son and Heir of Sir William Howard, a younger Branch of the Duke of Norfolk's Family, Earl of Carlisle, in which Family it still remains, in his Great Grandson, the present

Henry Howard, Earl of Carlisle; who marry'd a Daughter of the Earl of Sunderland, and Sister to his Grace the Duke of Marlborough.

Cockermouth Cockermouth, almost surrounded by the meeting of the Rivers Derwent and Cocker, is a good trading Market Town, with a Castle, formerly belonging to the Earls of Northumberland, and is 226 Miles computed from London, and 288 measured. The Duke of Somerset, is, at present, chief Lord of Cockermouth, in Right of his late Duchess, the only Heiress of the ancient Family of the Piercys, Earls of Northumberland. It is neatly built, but of a low Situation between two Hills, upon one of which is the Church, and upon the other, which seems to be artificially raised on Purpose, stands the Castle, very strong of itself, but more by its advantageous Situation.

This Town was anciently an Hamlet to Bridgeham. which stands about a Mile off, and had then only a Chapel for the Worship of God; but now it is a Parish, and hath had a Church of its own, dedicated to St. Michael, and built by the Lucy's, ever since the reign of King Edward III. but this being much decay'd by Time, was rebuilt entirely from the Ground, all but the Tower, in 1711, by a Collection made by a Brief granted to the Inhabitants for that Purpose. The Tower is a plain Building, supported with Buttresses, and coped at the Top with Battlements, and slated, but has only three Bells. The Houses in the Town are built with Stone, and slated, except some few, and are ranged into two Streets, the one above the River Cocker, in which are the Moot-Hall and Market-House, which is used chiefly for Corn, and the other below, in which is the Beast-Market. The Market is kept on Mondays; and the Fairs are annually on September 29, and Whit-Monday.

This Borough is no Corporation; its chief Magistrate is a Bailiff, chosen annually by a Jury of 16 Burghers, at the Duke of Somerset's Courts. He is Returning Officer of the Members of Parliament, who are elected by

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the Inhabitants at large, in Number about 300, tho' the Houses are not above 240, some of them containing several Families.

Ravenglass Ravenglass is the next Market Town we are to speak of: Here is a commodious Harbour for Ships, made by the Meeting of the River Mute with the Eske. Richard de Lucy, Lord of Egremont, obtain'd of King John, in the 10th Year of his reign, a Grant of a Fair and Market to be kept Yearly in Right of the Haven, as Lord Paramount; but at the same Time confirm'd by a Fine, levied to the Mesne Lords and Tenants, all the Land and Fee of Ravenglass; and gave them, moreover, Estovers to make their Fish-Guards in the River Eske, which is continu'd to this Day. The Market is kept on Saturdays: and the Fair on July the 25th; and it is 214 Miles computed, and 272 measured from London.

This Manor, and other Lands adjoining, have been long enjoy'd by the Penningtons, who took their name from the Town of Pennington in Lancashire. They were many of them Knights, and Men of great Valour in defending the Borders, and other Services.

Egremont Egremont is a small Market Town, standing on the Banks of a little River, over which there are two Bridges near it; It is famous for its Castle, seated upon a sharp-topt Hill, built by William de Meschines, Brother of Ranulph, first Earl of Cumberland. In the reign of Henry VI. Sir Thomas Piercy was created Baron of Egremont, and tho' he left no Issue, the Barony remain'd in the Family of the Piercy's, Earls of Northumberland. It was a Borough Town, having formerly the Privilege of electing Members of Parliament, but hath now lost it, for what Reason doth not appear. Its Market is on Saturdays; and it is 222 Miles computed and 287 measured from London.

Whitehaven Whitehaven is a Market Town, somewhat more N. so called from a great Rock of hard white Stone, standing on the W. Side of it, and the Haven which shelters the Vessels that enter into it from Tempests and Winds. It anciently belong'd to St. Bees, which we shall speak of hereafter.

The Town of Whitehaven is grown up by Encouragement of the Lowther Family, from a small Place

to

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to be very considerable for its Coal Trade, which of late Years is so much increas'd, that, next to Newcastle, it is the most eminent Port in England for that Trade. The City of Dublin, and all the Towns of Ireland on that Coast, and some Parts in Scotland, and the Isle of Man, are wholly supply'd from hence. It is frequent in Time of War, on Occasion of cross Winds, to have 200 Sail of Ships at a Time go from this Place to Dublin loaded with Coals. And Sir James Lowther, particularly, is said to send from hence to Ireland, annually, as many Coals as brings him in near 20,000 l. a Year.

Here is likewise a good Trade for Salt; and by the Increase of Shipping here, and the Advantage the Place has received from two Acts of Parliament in Queen Anne's Reign, to mend and improve the Harbour, and another in his present Majesty's, in 1740, for the same Purpose, and to repair Roads leading to it, the people are led into Merchandizing, and it is now on all Accounts reckon'd a considerable trading Town; tho' in Mr. Camden's Time, it was of so little Consequence that he takes no Notice of it, and his Continuator but little.

The King has several Officers here to look after the Customs. It is 227 Miles computed distant from London, and 289 measured. The Market is kept on Tuesdays, and the Fair is annually on the 1st of September. More to the North is

Workington Workington, a Town famous for Salmon-Fishing: The Salmon here are very good, and are carried fresh as they are taken up to London upon Horses, which changing often, go Night and Day without Intermission, and, as they say, out-go the Post; so that the Fish come very sweet and good to London, where the extraordinary Price they yield pays very well for the Carriage. The same is done from Carlisle.

The first Lord of the Manor of Workington, after the Norman Conquest, was William de Lancaster, who exchang'd it with Gospatrick, from whom are descended the Curwens, Knights, who have a noble Seat here; they took their present Name from one Curwen, a Family in Galloway, the Heiress of which was marry'd into this Family; and of this House Mr. Camden, with Modesty,

says

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says, he was descended by the Mother's Side.

The Parsonage of this Town being at the Dissolution appropriated to the Monastery of St. Bees, was then resign'd into the Hands of King Henry VIII.

Some are of Opinion, that Stilico, a potent Commander in the Roman State, made a Wall for about four Miles from hence, viz. from the Mouth of the Derwent to the River Eln, in all such Places as were convenient for landing, when the Scots from Ireland infested these Coasts; for thus Claudian makes Britain speak for herself:

Me quoq; vicinis pereuntem gentibus, inquit, Munivit Stilico, totam cum Scotus Hibernem Movit, & infesto spumavit remige Thetis.

Thus English'd:

And I shall ever own his happy Care, Who sav'd me sinking in unequal War, When Scots came thund'ring from the Irish Shores And th'Ocean trembl'd, struck with hostile Oars.

And, indeed, there are still found Pieces of Wall all along to the Mouth of the Eln.

Derwent Derwent Water The River Derwent, which rising in Borrodale, a Vale surrounded with crooked Hills, runs among the Mountains, call'd Derwent Fells, which having pass'd, it spreads itself into a spacious Lake, three Mile long, call'd by Bede, Praegrande Stragnum, i.e. a vast Pool, in which there are three Islands, one of them inhabited by German Miners; another is suppos'd by Bede to be the Place where St. Herbert lead an Hermit's Life; and the third has of late Years, had the Honour to be the Seat of the famous Family of Radcliffs, Knights, called from hence, for Distinction Sake, the Radcliffs of Derwentwater; the last of which Family was the late unhappy James, Earl of Derwentwater, who joining in a Rebellion against his Majesty King George I. was taken at the Battle of Preston in Lancashire, and beheaded on Tower Hill the 24th of February, 1716.

At the N.W. End of this Lake, in a fruitful Plain encompass'd with wet dewy Mountains, and protected by the Skiddaw, from the N. Winds, lies

Keswick Keswick, a little Market Town of good Note in

former

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former Times, but now much decay'd, and inhabited chiefly by Miners, who have their smelting Houses here for the Black lead. It is 218 Miles computed. and 283 measured from London. The Market here is on Saturdays, and the Fair on the 22d of July. The Black Lead Mines near this Place are the only Mines of the same Kind in Britain. On the N.E. of Keswick, lies

Penrith Penrith, or, as it is usually call'd Perith, which, in the British Language, is a Red Hill, or Head, because the Ground hereabouts, and the Stone of which it is built, are both reddish. It is a large well built Town, and esteem'd the second in the County for Trade and Wealth. The Market-House, which is a great Convenience to the People resorting thither to sell their Goods, is a large Building, beautify'd with Bears climbing up a ragged Staff, the Devise of the Earls of Warwick.

The W. Side of this Town was fortify'd with a Castle now in Ruins. The Church is an handsome spacious Edifice, but hath nothing further remarkable but an Inscription in rude Characters, set up for a Monument to Posterity, upon the N. Outside of the Vestry Wall: Fuit Pestis, &c. i.e. There was a Plague in this County in 1598, whereof died at Kendal, 2500; at Richmond, 2200; at Penrith, 2266; and at Carlisle, 1196: Which Relation is the more observable, and worth our Notice, because we have no Account of this Accident in any of our Histories. In King Henry VIII's Days, it was honour'd with the Title of a Suffragen Bishop.

In the Church Yard of this Place, on the N. Side of the Church are two large pyramidal Pillars, erected about four Yards high each of them, and about five Yards distant from one another: These, it is said, were set up in Memory of one Sir Owen Caesar, Knight, in old Time, a famous Warrior of great Strength and Stature, who lived in these Parts, and kill'd wild Boars in the Parish of Englewood, which much infested the Country: He was bury'd here, and, as Tradition reports, was of that prodigious Stature, as to reach from one Pillar to the other; to which it farther adds, That the rude Figures of Boars, which are wrought in the Stone, and placed on each Side of his Grave, are in

Memory

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Memory of his great Exploits on those Creatures.

In Penrith is a good Market for Corn, and other Commodities, on Tuesdays weekly; but for Cattle a much greater on the same Day once a Fortnight, from Whit-Sunday to August 1. The Fair is on Whit Tuesday; and it is 221 Miles computed, and 283 measured from London.

This Town was possess'd by that Party of Highland Scots Rebels, who made that desperate Push into England, which ended at Preston. In the Moor, or Heath, on the N. Part of the Town, the Militia of the County making a brave Appearance, and infinitely out-numbering the Highlanders, were drawn up; yet with their usual Bravery they run away as soon as the Scots began to advance to charge them, and never fir'd a Gun, leaving the Town at their Mercy: However, to do Justice to the Rebels, they offer'd no Injury to the Town, only quarter'd in it one Night, took what Arms and Ammunition they could find, and advanc'd towards Kendal in Westmoreland.

Westward of Penrith, and not far from the Head of the River Eln, stands

Ireby Ierby, a considerable Market Town: It is suppos'd to to be the Arbea of the Ancients, where the Barcarii Tigrinensis were garrison'd. At the Conquest it was a Gentleman's Seat, and one Village, but now it is become two Manors, the one called Ireby Alta, or High Ireby, and the other Ireby Basse, or Low Ireby, and often Market Ireby, because tho' the other be the more ancient Town, yet this having been the Lands of great Men successively, and standing in a more convenient Place, hath always been of more Account, and enjoy'd the Privilege of holding a Fair and Market, which the other has not. The High Ireby, was a long Time the Possession of a Family of that Name, descended from Orme de Ireby, Son of Gospatrick. The Lower is now the Lordship of the Musgraves of Crokedale, who are descended of the same Family.

The Market here is on Thursdays.

Wigtown Wigtown, a small Market Town, in the Forest of Allerdale, not far N. of Ireby, the Place last mentioned. It is remarkable only for several Altars pitched there,

which

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which they say were brought from Elemborough, and old Carlisle. The Market here is on Thursdays.

Kirkoswald Kirkswald, lying Westward of Wigtown, and the City of Carlisle, and on the Western Banks of the River Eden, is a small Market Town, which had its Name from the Church, dedicated to St. Oswald. There is nothing here of any Note. It is 210 Miles computed, and 252 measured from London. The Market is held on Thursdays. Somewhat to the N.W. of this, is

Alston Astonmore, a small Market Town, on the Banks of the River Eln, of which there is nothing to be said, but that the Market is here kept on Saturdays.

Brampton Brampton, the next Place we are to speak of, is a little Market Town, to the N.E. of Carlisle, and not far from a Bridge over the Eden. This Place, by the Learned, is thought to be the ancient Bremeturacum along the Wall, for it is scarce a Mile distant from it, where of old the first Cohort of the Tungri from Germany, and in the Decay of the Roman Empire, the Cuneus Armaturatum, under the Governor of Britain, was quarter'd: These Armaturae were Horsemen armed Cap-a-pee; but whether they were Duplares or Simplares, is not told us; the Duplares, in the Sense of that Age, were those that had a double Allowance of Corn, and the Simplares such as had a single. The Market here is on Tuesdays: It is 225 Miles computed, and 287 measured from London.

The Lands of the Town are, for the most Part, Demensne, and the Lord, who is at present the Right Hon. the Earl of Carlisle, keeps here Yearly a Court-Leet, and View of Frank-Pledge for the whole Barony of Gillisland, tho' anciently their chief Seat was at Irthington.

In this Town, is an Hospital for six poor Men, and as many poor Women, with an Allowance for a Chaplain, founded by the Right Honourable Elizabeth, Countess Dowager of Carlisle, Grandmother to the present Earl. By it there is a high Hill, called the Mote, ditched round at the Top, from which there is a clear Prospect over all the Country. Below this, and at Castle Steeds, which signifies the Place of a Castle, as also at Trederman, hard by, have been found several Roman Inscriptions. In the most Northern Part of this County lies

Longtown,

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Longtown Longtown, near where the Eske and Kirksop Rivers meet: It is a small Town, the Market of which is kept on Thursdays; and it is 234 Miles computed, and 315 measured from London.

Bowness on Solway On the N.W. of Carlisle, there juts out a small Promontory, at the Point of which is the large Arm of the Sea, call'd Solway-Frith, or Hunae-Ostium i.e., the Mouth of the River Eden. It is, at present, the Boundary between England and Scotland, but anciently between the Roman Provinces and the Picts. Upon this Promontory stands

Bulnesse which was the old Town, called by the Romans, Blatum Bulgium probably from the British Word Bulch, which signifies Partition or Divorce; or rather from a Word still in use in those Parts viz. Bulge, which signifies a Breaking in, as the Sea there doth. From this Place, as the utmost Limits of the Province of Britain, Antoninus begins his Itinerary. It is now but a very small Village, but has a Fort, as a Testimony of its Antiquity, besides the Tracts of Streets and Pieces of old Walls, which frequently appear as they are ploughing in the common Field.

It was anciently the Head Town of a large Manor containing many Hamlets, as Glaston, Drumburgh, &c. and tho' many of which are separated from it, yet here still remains the Mother Church. At a Mile's Distance from hence Northward, begins the famous Picts Wall: And a little down the Firth is

Drumburgh-Castle, the Seat of Gamel de Brune, anciently given him by one of the first Barons of Burgh, soon after the Conquest, but afterwards the Possession of the Lord Dacre. In the Time of the Romans it was made a Station, and some will have it to be the Castra Exploratorum; but the Distances will by no Means allow it. The Romans had also another Station near this Place, which, by changing of the Name, is, at present called

Burgh by Sands Burgh upon Sands, a large Barony, taking in all the neighbouring Lands and Town: It was first bestowed by Ranulph de Meschines, Lord of Cumberland, upon Robert de Estrivers, or Trivers, whom he made also chief Forester in his Forest of Englewood. From him, by

Marriage

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Marriage it came to Sir Hugh Morvil, whose Family enjoy'd it for some Time, and were called the Morvils of Burgh super sabulones: A Knight of this Family, named Hugh Morvil, was one of the four that kill'd Thomas Beckett, Archbishop of Canterbury; for which, being afterwards very penitent, he gave the Rectory of this Town to the Abbey of Holm Cultram, which the Bishops of Carlisle appropriated to the Monks.

The Sword with which he kill'd the Archbishop was kept long at Issal, and now remains in the Family of the Arundels.

This Town is yet more memorable for the Mounment of our victorious Prince Edward I. who having so far subdu'd the Scots as to bring away the sacred Stone at Scone Abbey, whereupon their Kings used to be crown'd, died here in his Camp, on his March against them, like a true Soldier, guarding his Frontiers with his latest Breath: In Memory of him there was afterwards erected a handsome square Pillar nine Yards and a half high, with these inscriptions on three Sides:-

On the W. Side.

Memoriae eternae EDWARDI I. Angliae Longe Clarissimi, qui in Belli Apparatu contra Scotos occupatus Hic in Castris Obiit, 7 Julii, A.D. 1307.

On the N. Side.

Nobilissimus Princeps HENRICUS HOWARD Dux Norfoliciae, Comes Mareschal, Angliae Oriundus, P. A.D. 1685.

On the other Side.

JOHANNES AGLIONBY, I. C. F. C. i.e. Juris consultus fieri causavit.

Beneath.

THOMAS LANGSTONE, fecit, 1685

The

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The Inhabitants say, that under this Burgh in the very AEstuary, there was first a Sea Fight between the Scots and English; and when the Tide was out, a second Fight began between the Horse of both Sides, as strange as that which Pliny relates in Caramania, and makes a great Wonder of it: Into this AEstuary the Huna, or River Eden, having pass'd thro' Part of Westmoreland, and quite cross the N.E. Parts of the County, falls with a vast Body of Waters, which in the Year 1216, seemed to be the greatest Enemy that the Scots had, for when they had plunder'd the English without Resistance, and were returning with Loads of Spoil, they came upon them with a full Torrent, and quickly swallow'd up the whole plundering Crew.

Eden Eamont Ullswater The River Eden, almost as soon as it enters this County, receives from the W. the River Eimont, which has its Rise from the Lake call'd Ulles or Ulleswater. Upon the Banks of which, where the little River Dacre joins it, stands

Dacre Dacre Castle Dacre-Castle, noted in later Ages for giving its Name to the Family of the Barons de Dacre; and was mentioned by Bede for having a Monastery there in his Time. The Castle has still some Signs that it was anciently a magnificent Building, when it was the Seat of that Family; but there are no Remains of a Monastery, nor does it appear by any Records that it has been standing since the Conquest.

William of Malmesbury takes Notice of its being the Place where Constantine, King of the Scots, and Eugenius, King of Cumberland, put themselves and their Kingdoms under the Protection of King Athelstane. Near this Place is

Dalemain Dalemain, the Mansion House of Edward Hassel, Esq; held of the Barony of Graystock in Cornage, by which Tenure the Possessors of these, and other Lands in the same Manor, are oblig'd, under the Penalty of forfeiting them, to give Notice of any Enemy's Approach by the sounding of an Horn, and to serve in the Wars against the Scots, marching thither in the Van, and returning in the Rear. Somewhat higher, at a little Distance from the Conflux of the Eimont and Lodor, (at

which

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which is the round Trench, called King Arthur's Table) stands Penrith before-mentioned.

Plumpton Park Upon the Banks of the little River Peterell, lay Plompton-Park, a very large Piece of Ground, and formerly set apart by the Kings of England for the Keeping of Deer for their own Use and Hunting, with which it was so well stocked once, that King Edward I. is said to have killed 200 Bucks in one Day in hunting in this Forest.

The Grotto After the Eden has received the Eimont, it hastens towards the N. and within half a Mile passes by a Grotto of two Rooms dug out of a Rock, called Isis Parlish; which Mr. Camden's Continuator says, was a Place of Strength and Security; but it seems now only to have been a Lurking-Place for Robbers, and its Security to have been its Secrecy, the Entry to it being long and dark, and the Passage, at present, block'd up with Earth. Leaving this Place, the Current washes several inconsiderable Villages and Forts, 'till it comes to the two

Salkelds Long Meg and Her Daughters Salkelds, at the least of which is a Circle of Stones, 77 in Number, each of them 10 Feet high, and before them stands a single one by itself, which is 15 Feet high; this the common People call Long Meg, and the rest her Daughters; and within the Circles are two Heaps of Stones, under which the People suppose there are dead Bodies buried, which Mr. Camden thinks very probably; but he supposes that the great Stones are a Monument to some Victory; but that the Commentator is of Opinion, that the Heap of Stones in the Middle of the Monument are no Part of it; but having been gather'd off the plough'd Lands adjoining, have been thrown together here as in a waste Corner of the Field; and as to the great Stones, he says, they seem to be Monuments erected at the solemn Investiture of some Danish Kings, like Rolrich Stones in Oxfordshire, those of Kongstolen in Denmark, and Mooresteen in Sweden. The Eden leads us next to

Armathwaite Castle Armathwaite-Castle, belonging to the Skeltons, and then advances to

Corby

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Corby Castle Corby, a Castle once the Seat of the ancient Family of the Salkelds, at present belonging to Mr. Howard, a Branch of the Duke of Norfolks' Family: The Building is of Stone, neat but plain. The Entrance to this House is by a large square Court-Yard. On the Right Hand are the Gardens, and on the Left the Offices for Servants and the Stables. It is plentifully watered by Springs in several large Reservoirs made about the House, which stands on the Precipice of a high Rock, which is in the back Part about 100 Feet high: In this Rock is cut a Regular Pair of Stairs of about six Feet wide, with all their Ornaments down to the Bottom; as you descend these Stairs, you pass by several Rooms hewn out of the Rock about 16 Feet square, which have no other Furniture than Tables and Seats made out of the Stone. At the Bottom of those Stairs you ascend another Pair about 10 Feet high, which leads to a Terrace made in Form of a Semicircle, by the Side of which runs the River Eden, having a Pair of Stairs to take Water at. The Terrace presents a fine View of another Part of the Rock, of equal Height with the former, from the Top of which falls a most wonderful curious Cascade, at last, an 100 Feet high, and the Water is broken by the pointed Ridges of the Rock into so many various Shapes, and the Springs fly about in so delightfully rude a Manner, as shews the great Power of Art in embellishing Nature; which is farther heighten'd by a natural Cascade, (effected by this artificial one,) of which there is a distinct Prospect at the Landing Stairs.

From hence there is another View of half a Mile long, of the River on the Right Hand: and a hanging Grove of Trees, just as Nature has plac'd them, on the Left. There is a small Banquetting-House at the End of a Gravel Walk with a Portico in front.

In the River is a Weir well stock'd with Salmon and other Fish. On the other Side of the River, over-against the House, are the remains of an old castle, which is called Weatherel-Tower, under which is an Hermit's Cave. A little higher is

Warwick Warwick, which Mr. Camden will have to be the

old

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old Roman Virosidum, where the sixth Cohort of the Nervii formerly kept Garrison along the Wall against the Picts and Scots. In the last Age, the Richmonds and Salkelds bearing the Expence equally, built a very strong Stone Bridge over the Eden for the Convenience of Travellers. Following the Course of the River, we next come to

Linstock Castle Linstock, a Castle of the Bishop of Carlisle. The Barony was first given by King Henry I. to one Walter, his Chaplain, to hold of him and his Successors, the Kings of England; but Walter voluntarily taking upon him a religious Life, with the King's Licence in the Priory of St. Mary's at Carlisle, the King gave Linstock to the Canons in pure Alms. The Bishop's See was after erected at Carlisle by the same King in 1133; but the Lands were enjoy'd by the Bishop and Convents, who had the Power of Election in common, 'till Pandolf, the Pope's Legate, made a Division, and so the Barony of Linstock became the Possessions of the See of Carlisle, as it continues to this Day.

Greystoke Castle Rose Castle The Eden now drawing near the AEstuary receives two little Rivers almost at the same Place, viz. the Peterell and the Caude, which coming from the S. keep all along at almost equal Distance, upon the former of which is Greystock Castle belonging to his Grace the Duke of Norfolk; and upon the Caude, Roso Castle, a beautiful Seat of the Bishop of Carlisle: For this County having been a Frontier, the ancient Houses of the Nobility and Gentry there are, for the most Part, built Castlewise.

Battle of Solway Moss Beyond the Esk, the County for some Miles is reckon'd English Ground, and in that Compass, is Sollom-Mosse, a Place remarkable for the Success of the English, in taking many Scotch Noblemen Prisoners in 1542; the Occasion was this: The Scots being ready to join Battle, contrary to their Expectation, found that Sir Oliver Sinclair was appointed their General, a Person who not only lay under a general Odium, but being of an inferior Rank, the Noblemen took it as an Affront to them to be commanded by him; and to revenge the Injury, as they call'd it, fell into Mutinies and Disorder.

The

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The English commanded by Sir Thomas Wharton, being posted upon the higher Ground, observed this Advantage, and falling upon him put them to Flight, and took many Prisoners, without any Blood, among whom were the Earl of Cassels and Glencarn, the Lords Maxwel, Fleming, Sir Oliver Sinclair, and many others. James V. King of Scotland, was so much concern'd for the Loss of his Army, which consisted of 15,000 Men, that he soon after died of Grief. The Country beyond this Place was, before the Union of the two Kingdoms, called Batable-Ground, i.e. Lands always in Debate, the Inhabitants on both Sides always contending for it, and yielding it to neither; but now all those Feuds and Quarrels upon the Borders are ceased, and both Nations dwell in it with as much Safety and Security as in any other Place.

Whinfield Forest stag hunt In Whinfield Park, at the Borders of this County, is shewn a Hawthorn Tree, against which the Heads of a Stag and a Dog were formerly nailed up in Memory of a famous Chace: It seems a Dog (not a Greyhound, as Mr. Camden's Continuator calls it, but a staunch Buckhound) singly chased a Stag from this Park, as far as the Red Kirk in Scotland, which they say is 60 Miles at least, and back again to the same Place; where being both spent, the Stag exerting his last Force, leaped the Park Pales, and died on the Inside; the Hound attempting to leap after him, had not Strength enough to get over, but fell back and died on the Outside just opposite. The Heads of both were nailed upon the Tree, and underneath this Distich on them:

Hercules kill'd Hart-a-Greese And Hart-a-Greese kill'd Hercules.[1]

Countess Pillar W. of the Hawthorn Tree, and upon the old Roman Way is the famous Column, call'd the Countess's Pillar, the best and most beautiful Piece of its Kind in Britain: It is a fine Column of Free-stone, curiously wrought in Basse-Relieve, and in some Places painted: It has an Obelisk on the Top, several Coats of Arms, and other Ornaments in proper Places all over it, with Dials also

on

The Hounds Name was Hercules.

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on every Side, and a Brass Plate, with the following Inscription, in Capital Letters:

This Pillar was erected Anno 1656, by the Right Honourable ANNE, Countess Dowager of Pembroke, and sole Heir of the Right Honourable GEORGE, Earl of Cumberland, &c. for a Memorial of her last parting in this Place with her good and Pious Mother, the Right Honourable MARGARET, Countess Dowager of Cumberland, the 2d of April, 1616. In Memory whereof she has also left an Annuity of Four Pounds to be distributed to the Poor within this Parish of Brougham, every 2d Day of April for ever, upon the Stone Table hereby.

Lady Anne Pembroke This Countess of Pembroke had a noble and great Estate in this County, and a great many fine old Seats, all which she repair'd and beautify'd, and dwelt sometimes at one, and sometimes at another, for the Benefit of her Tenants, and of the Poor, whom she always made desirous of her Presence, constantly relieving them by her Bounty and Hospitality.

mountains Wry Nose Three Shire Stones Skiddaw Helvellyn Catstye Cam Some of the Mountains in Cumberland are very remarkable for their Height, viz. the Mountain called Wry Nose, upon the Top of which, near the Highway-Side, are to be seen three Stones, commonly call'd Shire-Stones, lying within a Foot of one another, yet in three several Counties, viz. one in Cumberland, another in Westmorland, and the third in Lancashire. Secondly, the Skiddaw, a Mountain that rises up with two mighty high Heads like Parnassus, and from which Scruffel Hill, which is in Anandale in Scotland, may be discerned; and according as Mists rise or fall upon these Heads, the People there prognosticate of the Change of Weather. The third is Lauvellin, the fourth Castinand, of which, and the former, they have a proverbial Speech among them:

Skiddaw, Lauvellin, and Castinand, Are th' highest Hills in all England.

On the S.W. of the Wry-Nose, is

Hardknot-Hill, a ragged Mountain, so steep, that it is almost impossible to ascend it, yet on the Top of it a-

bout

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[a]bout 100 Years ago, not without great Admiration, were dug up some huge Stones, which looked like the Foundation of a Castle; but it is more probable, that they were the Ruins of some Church or Chapel built upon the Mountain, because it was thought an extraordinary Piece of Devotion in those Parts, (and Wormius testifies the same of Denmark) to erect Crosses and build Chapels in the most eminent Places, as being nearer Heaven, and more conspicuous: they were commonly dedicated to St. Michael: On the same Account the large Tract of Mountains, which runs thro' the E. Side of the County, is call'd Crosse Fells; for before they were call'd Fiends, or Devil's Fells, as a small Town at the Bottom of them still bears the Name of Dilston, i.e. Devil's Town.

St Bees Westward, and a little to the N. of Egremond, juts out a Promontory, call'd St. Bees Head, whereon is the Town of St. Bees, made famous for being the Birth Place of Archbishop Grindal, who founded and endow'd a good Grammar School there, which has a Library belonging to it: And it is much improved by the Munificence of Dr. Lamplugh, an Archbishop of York; Dr. Smith, Bishop of Carlisle; Sir John Lowther, of Whitehaven, and others: The Right of presenting a Master is in the Provost and Fellows of Queen's College, Oxford.

eminent men Among the eminent Men born in this County, besides Archbishop Grindal, before-mention'd were

1. Sir John Bankes, Attorney-General in the Reign of King Charles I. born at Keswick, where he set up a Workhouse for the Poor of this Parish, and the Parish of Crosthwate.

2. Dr. William Aglionby, descended of the Aglionbys of this County: He was a Gentleman well known for his polite Learning, and sent by the late Queen Anne as Envoy to the Swiss Cantons.

3. Sir Joseph Williamson; he was the Son of a Minister of this County, and had his Academical Education in Queen's College in Oxford; of which, after having proceeded to Master of Arts, he became a Fellow: He was first introduc'd into the Secretary's Office by Sir Edward Nicholas, Secretary of State, and afterwards continued Under-Secretary to Henry, Earl of Arlington, when he was Principal Secretary of State. In the Year 1661, he

was

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was chosen a Member of Parliament for Thetford in Norfolk, and was usually their Representative 'till his Death. In January 1671, he was sworn one of the Clerks of the Council in Ordinary, and knighted.

He was then sent Plenipotentiary to the Treaties of Cologn, Nimeguen, and Ryswick: When he returned Home from Nimeguen, in September 1674, he was made a Privy Counsellor, and one of the Principal Secretaries of State, and continued in both those Employments 'till February 1678. In the Year 1696, he was again sworn a Privy Counsellor, and continued so 'till his Death, which happened October 3, 1701, at the Age of 70 Years, and some few Weeks. He had been likewise President of the Royal Society, and a great Benefactor to Queen's College, the Place of his Education, to which he left at his Death, not only his Library, which consisted of a choice Collection of Books, but also a Legacy of 6000l, as he did 6000l. more to the School at Rochester for the Encouragement of Navigation; 2000l. to the Town of Thetford, where he was usually elected Member of Parliament; 2000l. more to Christ Church Hospital, and 300l. to that of St. Bartholomew's, of both which he was a Governor.

seats of the nobility and gentry The Seats of the Nobility and Gentry of this County are

Drumburgh Castle and

Greystock-Castle, both Seats of his Grace Edward Howard, Duke of Norfolk, Hereditary Earl Marshall and first Duke of England, after the Princes of the Royal Family. He marry'd a Daughter of Edward Blount, Esq; of Blagden in Devonshire, and his Lady Arabella, the Daughter of Sir John Guise, Bart. of Rencomb in Gloucestershire. Another of whose Daughters is marry'd to his Grace's Brother, the Hon. Philip Howard, Esq;

Cockermouth-Castle, belonging to his Grace Charles Seymour, Duke of Somerset, Knight of the most noble Order of the Garter, who marry'd, for his first Lady, Catharine, sole Heiress of the Family of the Piercys, Earls of Northumberland, by whom he had this Estate with other large Possessions; his present Duchess is Daughter of the

late

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late Earl of Nottingham and Sister to the present Earl of Winchelsea and Nottingham. - Naworth Castle, the Sea[t] of the Right Honourable Henry Howard, Earl of Carlisle. - Kirkoswald and Dacre Castle, the late Earl of Suffex's. - Corby Castle, the Seat of the Honourable Charles Howard, Esq; - Moncaster, near Whitehaven, the Seat of Sir Joseph Pennington, one of the Knights of the Shire in the present Parliament. - Whitehaven, Sir James Lowther's, the other Representative in Parliament for this County. - Eden Hall, the Seat of Sir Philip Musgrave, Bart. and Knight of the Shire for the County of Westmorland. - Hayton Castle, Sir Richard Musgave's. - Hutton Hall, the late Sir George Fletcher's. - Kirkanders, upon the Eske, the late Lord Preston's. Penrith Castle, the Seat of the Right Hon. Sackvile Tufton, Earl of Thanet, who married one of the Daughters of the late Marquis of Halifax. - Workington, belonging to Henry Curwen, Esq; - Aglionby, and Stanwicks, Mr. Aglionby's. - Whitehall, Mr. Salkeld's Rose Castle, Bishop of Carlisle. - Armathwaite, the Seat of John Skelton, Esq; Blencow Magna, Mr. Blencow's. - Dale-Main, Lady Hassel's. - Dalston Hall, Sir George Dalston's. - High Close, Sir Wilfrid Lawson's. - Islekirk, Mr. Fetherstone's. - Hale Hall, Mr. Ponsonby's. - Croke Dake, Mr. Ballendin's. - Crofton, the Seat of John Briscoe, Esq; - Gaile, Mr. Hutton's. Haukesdale Hall. - John Nicholson's, Esq; - Nether Hesketh, the late Mr. Lawson's - Scalby, the Seat of William Glisson, Esq; - Lamplugh, the Seat of Thomas Lamplugh, Esq; - Raby Cate, Mrs. Chamber's. - Stonegarthside, Mr. Forster's. - Scales, the Seat of the late John Brougham, Esq; one of the Commissioners of the Excise.

And many other Gentlemens Seats and Houses.